- • Q: I have a 1948 CJ2A that I’m restoring. A friend of mine said i could or should have it acid or metal dipped and it would be even better than sand/silca/soda blasting. What are the pros and cons? How much does metal dipping it cost? Any other info I should know?
- • A: Acid dipping a car body is the best choice. When the body is dipped every surface is getting cleaned because it is completely submerged. When you sand or soda blast it will only clean what you can point the gun at. Another advantage of acid dipping is there is no chance for warping large body panels. When sand blasting there can be heat generated causing the item to warp. Another advantage our acid dipping process is the protective coating that is applied to prevent flash rusting. When a part is sand blasted it must be prepped and painted right away.
- • Q: Q: I called about getting the cab of my 51 Chevy truck done, and was quickly corrected about it not being acid dipping, but "chemical dipped"
- • A: There are a few different ways that this process can be done. Our process does use acid in the final stages. The use of acid in the dipping procedure provides two crucial elements in the restoration process. First, it is a vital part of removing rust. Secondly, it neutralizes the paint removal process which is extremely important. This means all the chemicals that are used in the paint removal process are neutralized. Without completely neutralizing the paint removal chemicals there is a high risk of potential issues with any new paint applied to the metal of the automobile. We are not exactly sure how the other metal or acid dipping processes neutralize the paint removal process effectively or if they do at all.
- • Q: I have always heard doing the a metal dipping of a whole car is not good. That dip gets in the seams and doesn’t come out unless the whole thing is baked to cook it out. In other words the dip seeps out and removes your new paint its better and probably cheaper to have it sand blasted.
- • A: This is our most commonly asked question. First off, when the car is acid (metal) dipped with our process, all paint removal chemicals will be neutralized. If there is seepage onto the paint surface this is generally because the prep and paint work was not done correctly. Sometimes areas where the factory seam sealed or just sealed are missed when refinishing. The seepage you would see in this case is generally rust generated by water gathering and creating rust which can run out of a seam. This can lead to other discussions on restoration techniques, sealing hidden areas, etc.. On the other hand when comparing sandblasting to acid dipping some other key advantages we see are simply the cleaning of the hidden areas. Let’s say were washing a Chevelle. When we remove it from the first tank for washing it is amazing how much mud, sand and just garbage that get washed out. Areas like rocker panels, lower cowls, trunk drop off’s, etc.. If these areas are not cleaned they will simply act like a sponge and continue to gather moisture and rust from the inside out. Sand blasting will not clean these areas it will only add to the problem.
- • Q: They use non acid dipping that does as good a job as the acid dipping. The good thing is you don't have to worry about non neutralized acid seeping out of a crack later and ruining a paint job.
- • A: We use Phosphoric acid in our dipping process. This is acid is used for rust removal and neutralization of the paint removal chemicals. Phosphoric acid is also used in primers for purpose of etching ensure paint adhesion (acid etch primer) and a product called Ospho with is designed to kill rust.
- • Q: Yeah I would be inclined to head for soda blasting or similar..apparently doesn’t warp your panels and don’t have to worry about corrosion as much
- • A: Blasting of any type will only clean what you can point the gun at. It will not clean hidden areas of metal where mud and other debris will gather moisture and cause rust.
- • Q: Do I have to remove every bolt or what? Can I keep my disc’s and spindles on?
- • A: Yes, break down as much as possible. This will allow everything to be cleaned the absolute best during the acid / metal dipping process.
- • Q: From what I've been told you have to remove everything that’s not metal. That means aluminum also. It is very costly
- • A: The metal dipping process is not friendly to aluminum and pot metals. Be sure and inspect your parts for rivets, tags, bushings etc.. for these materials. General rule is that a magnet should stick to it if you’re questioning the material.
- • Q: I’m in Southern California do you know of any metal dipping operations in my area?
- • A: You have no idea how many calls and emails I get from people far away asking me this question. Sorry we are not familiar with any other dipping operation on the West Coast that we can recommend. We have people bring their cars, car parts, and other items from as far away as the Bay Area, Sacramento, all over Northern California, Idaho, Washington State, Reno, Nevada, even Salt Lake City Utah. Oregon is a beautiful place so plan your trip up here and make a vacation out of it. Our location is just one hours drive to the Oregon Coast or an hour and a half to Portland, Oregon.
We have made this page to help answer some commonly asked questions about metal dipping. We are very confident in the results that our dipping process delivers. Our company also operates a restoration facility in which the majority of the cars and parts are acid dipped. You are welcome to contact us with direct questions regarding our acid dipping process.
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